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 Replacing CMF Swingarm Bushings
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tooclose racing
Advanced Member

USA
283 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  3:12:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have to replace my Six Day swingarm bushings and found the following technique from "Chuck" here on the POG waaayyy back in 2006:

"Swingarm bushing removal and installation can be a bear. Sounds like you're going through the same process I did last year. While I decided not to powder coat, I was struggling with removing the bushings until I read an earlier post. I don't remember who's post it was but all you need is a vise, a small propane torch (you can purchase at Home Depot for $10) and a few sockets. Socket #1 needs to be the size of the bushings itself and able to fit inside the swingarm. Socket #2 needs to be the same circumference as the swingarm. Put socket #1 on one side of the swingarm and socket #2 on the other side and place in vise. Heat the socket #1 side of the swingarm with the torch and slowly close vise. Bushing should come out fairly easily. Repeat the process for the other side. Replacing the bushings is basically the same process in reverse. You will need a vise that opens enough to fit swingarm, both sockets and the length of the busing."

I'm just trying to do the mental picture here -is socket #2 going to "receive" the bushing? Other than that - I think I get it.

I didn't find any other specific techiques, other than a Dan Killian suggestion to use above propane torch in a much more destructive manner. Do POG members have any other advice?

Thanks

Ernie Phillips
Advanced Member

USA
454 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  4:01:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Here is how the squirrels do it with the extra complication of the swing arm bolt stuck to inner sleeve:

Swingarm removal/bushing replacement (Six Day CMF):

1. Swingarm bolt stuck to inner sleeve – with engine removed use a reciprocating saw to cut the sucker out. Make your first cut between the frame and swingarm. With the swingarm removed you may be able press/punch out the stuck bolt. If not, make next cuts between swingarm and rear engine mount. When cutting, stay away from the frame and engine mounts. I used a Bi-Metal, 6”-24tpi Recip Blade from Ace Hardware – PN # 2066422 and can verify that it is a very durable blade (8 cuts and still good). (When the swingarm bolt is stuck to the inner sleeve be careful and do not get to happy with a 12mm hex key and cheater bar. If the busing is really stuck, you will either strip the bolt threads, strip the socket head, or distort the frame. When you turn the bolt something is going to move or strip – don’t ask)

2. Bushing removal (rubber with inner and outer metal sleeves)
- Option A: Beat and bang the old bushing out. Not recommended.
- Option B: Heat swingarm bushing area with propane torch (be careful and do burn down the house) until the rubber begins to bubble. Place punch on inner sleeve and knock it out. Next, take recip saw and make two longitudinal cuts into the sleeve, 180 degrees apart. Be careful and do not cut into swingarm. Take cold chisel and punch/peel the sleeve out.

3. Bushing Installation. – Put new bushing in freezer to cool. Clean swingarm bushing mounting area. I used a Dremel sanding drum on the ID to make nice and shinny. Heat swingarm bushing area with propane torch. Don’t get too carried away, you are just trying to get a little expansion on the swingarm and a little contraction on the bushing to make things easier. Put a little grease on the cold bushing and install quickly. Have a bushing driver (proper sized socket will work) handy incase you need to persuade bushing into location.

As a perquisite, check the condition of your swingarm bolt. Sometimes it is worn and excessive movement is due to the bolt and not the busing. If you do need to replace bushings and have bolt wear also, you will still get a little wiggle depending on severity of bolt wear.


Ernie P.
Chattanooga, TN
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brian kirby
Advanced Member

861 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  4:02:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thats how to do it. Its smokey, but it works.

Brian
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linglewn
Advanced Member

USA
176 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  4:38:44 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
One hint or suggestion. When trying to remove a "moderately stuck" swingarm bolt by unscrewing it with a cheater bar and allen wrench, place a sturdy pipe clamp across the frame at the swingarm. This will prevent spreading and distortion of the frame. As Ernie said, don't over do it to the point that you strip the threads. Plenty of penetrating oil helps.

Nelson Lingle
73 Jackpiner
74 Jackpiner
71 DKW 125
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john durrill
Advanced Member

USA
1433 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  4:45:45 PM  Show Profile  Send john durrill a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Nelson,
That and about 3.65743 inches of Det. cord .
You should be at least 35 feet away when you set off the Det. cord though............. and of course wear all appropriate personal protective gear
john d.
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Mike Hufnagel
Senior Member

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2010 :  5:56:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I wound up cutting the bearings out with a Dremel like bit. That thing will cut stainless. Bushings were no problem
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tooclose racing
Advanced Member

USA
283 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  09:24:45 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Gentlemen - thank you for the advice and suggestions. Looks like a Saturday morning "project".
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t20sl
Advanced Member

505 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2010 :  1:41:23 PM  Show Profile  Send t20sl a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
Det cord works great on stuck pistons also, but make sure you have removed the fuel tank so the head doesn't "dent" the bottom of tank.
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